After the shot

Hi this is Lissa are you ready to have another photography tutorial? I am ready to give you one! Today it is called After the shot because not so long ago we all turned in our rolls of film, picked it up happily, lucky if we make it to the car before the package got opened then sorted and safely put them away in our albums or boxes waiting to be scrapped. Then digital came along. Did anyone tell you that it is a do it yourself system? Probably not. Today we are going to touch base with:

Making sure you have the right card for your camera
The card is full, what to do with it now?  How to take care of your card.
How do I share my images?
Filing and Storage solutions

All sound the same right? Well in a sense yes it is, but it is not. First of all if you are a “digital for dummies” kind of gal (or guy) you can take your card down to your favorite photo developers and have them print all your pictures and put them on cd so you have a back up if they get lost right? That is one option but you may want to read on…

As I say in all my tutorials that your camera manual is your ticket to success.  Even if it sounds greek to you if you read it enough you will “get it” sooner or later or find little bits and pieces you didn’t get before.  First of all you have to use the right card for your camera.  Alot of newer cameras have moving files such as video and photo, this requires an SDHC card,  In the card, it will tell you what class it is,SanDisk 16GB Secure Digital High-Capacity (SDHC) Flash Card Model SDSDB-016G-B35 do you see that circled number 4?  That is how fast the card will perform.  If you have an older camera the faster the class is, it will not work it just can’t keep up. If you have a newer camera and you do have photo/video capabilities, the class 4 may work but very poorly.  It will NOT work at all if you don’t have the HD attached to the SD.  An SDHC stands for Secure Digital high-capacity.  My camera has the video, and I use a class 10 as recommend and they can get even fancier then that being a SDHC1 30 Megabytes a second and all that jazz…trying to keep it simple here.  This represents a 16 GB card, which you will have to decide on what size you want to hold your images on.  Cards do fail, how much data do you want lost all at once??  Or will you compermize because you are doing a mix of video and pictures?  I personally like the 4 gb’s myself, I don’t mind having many cards, but If I am going to do a bit of video, I am going to want to have a 16 gb on hand to insure I have enough space for the event.  I usually pay about 9.99 on amazon for my cards.  That is priceless to me.

There are many different options with cards when you get ready to put them to test. Some computers have built in card readers, almost any store carries external card readers if not. (be sure to match the reader with your type of card)  This is the best way to transfer files to your computer vs hooking your camera up to your computer. When you hook your camera up to your computer you are using much loved battery juice to transfer those files. Then where do they go into my computer?  Well, I have an chosen to purchase an external hard-drive. I plug it in, the menu pops up and asks me what I want to do with it, I choose view the files on the drive and there I am in my computer: where I have named the photo drive letter, mine is (L): Family Pics. I file all my family pictures chronologically. This makes things easy for me to find. So at the beginning of the year I will start out with a folder named
Then a sub-folder> 01-January
                                                           >ORIGINAL FILES
What happened in January?  >1-1-13 NewYearsDay
>1-15-13 sledding
>1-21-13 Our trip to grandmas
>1-22-13 Kiddo’s B’day party

                                     Other iPhone Pics for the month
>JPEG for print
ALL EDITED FILES GO HERE  the file names should keep them organized until I use                                                                              multiple cameras and sort in my iPhone pics per event.
                                                           >Scrapbook pages or digital imaging (PSD FILES)

When you transfer the files since you are burning them to cd, or if not do not delete them off your card until you do… you will need to care for you card and clean it by using the format feature found in your camera.  Use the camera format, not computer format.  This will take out bad sectors and clean up your files but your card has to be emptied to do so or you will lose images.  Not fun.

There is rhyme and reason in this, the major reason for this type of organization is because You never ever ever never… did I stress enough>It is not a typo, EVER want to write over the original file. The reason being is every time you save over a jpg, it compresses the pixels, then looses quality, you may get away with it once and still get a decent 4×6 but if there are several people accessing the files, such as on a server, and saving over it, time and time again. Those files will eventually be distorted. You definitely want to use a back up system for that on your local computer or burn them to CD.

So to prevent saving over your originals, (think of them as your negatives) you save them in another location, as you can see I have created a JPEG folder. Most likely you have shot the image in JPEG to start with, that is why I called it ORIGINAL files, but I don’t always shoot in Jpg (I will touch base about this in a few) The Jpg folder is the folder I use for printing. Once I open up the original file, I can duplicate it in PS, close the original and work with the file I am going to print or resize for the web. You can rename that file as desired depending on your destination. For example this file is named IMG_ 1087. I will want to rename it IMG_1087_4x6 if that is all I plan to print it out as. I  crop it to the 4×6 ratio. or leave it as is since my camera images is set to that aspect ratio. Some cameras have a special format they use, read your manual and it may have an option for you to change it to. If you see this in your manual a chart you may have that option in your camera menu to change it. Some digital cameras use really odd sizes but I don’t know them all so this is what I will go with, standard.

        Print Size =  Aspect Ratio
4×6  =    3:2
5×7   =   7:5
8×10  =  5:4
20x3o =  3:2

If you want to share on the web and you notice your pictures are larger than your screen you will need to resize them to one of these aspect ratios, of course you don’t need all these for the web, but if gives you a guide for what you can input for your camera settings.  When you set your camera settings you want to use the highest resolution, despite of space it takes on the card, cards are cheap.  The reason being is when you take a shot to far away and you need to crop in, you will need all the pixels you can get  to keep a good quality shot.  Cropping decreases the amount of pixels, no different then the loss of some of the picture.  There are many free software’s that do will re size, when an iPhone uploads, it does it for you in the background. The camera does not. I can show you how in Photoshop.

First you have your original file. As shown below. This is what my camera gives me..tutorial

Then to resize the image, In the menu bar, you go to Image> Image size. This is where it all happens. This is the original size of my file in my camera… Then you start with the RESOLUTION box, instead of  240 you change it to 72.  This also known as DPI = (dots per inch) 72 IS the magical number for the web. It distorts the image enough for theft, no one will get a great quality print out of it, some people don’t see quality as much as others, so it isn’t full proof for theft but it is a start. It also resizes properly for nicely viewing on the web, and people with slow internet connections will not have to wait forever and a day for your images to show. They will be gone by the time it is loaded.

Once you have put in your resolution then you can put in your desired width and height.tutorialresize

I do not recommend going higher than 900 pixels for 12×12 pages, I personally will use 4×6 or 5×7 for regular images. Then when you are ready you can click ok and then saving images for the web can go in a complete different directory such as “My Pictures” file, create a folder called RESIZED FOR THE WEB, and then another folder for “RECEIVED FROM THE WEB” I use this folder for when someone sends me a file or just junk I save off the web.


So, what is different about me, why don’t I shoot in Jpeg?  There is a format called RAW also known as a .CRW or .CR2 file extension in place of JPEG in my camera. When I open up my images in Photoshop it opens up a RAW viewer. This gives lossless image editing abilities, am able to edit it, save it then go back and edit again, and resave it as much as I want with lossless compression.  A PSD file you can do this with as well, and a TIFF file, but what is special about RAW is I have much more control over my image with the tools they have in the RAW viewer, it is very powerful. Almost to powerful for a new budding photographer who is trying to learn how to take proper exposure. I believe all SLR camera’s have the RAW feature I even have a Canon point and shoot that has RAW as well.  If you have Photoshop CS5 and above you can right-click in the browser to edit Jpegs, PSD, or TIFFs too.  That was fun to find out!  You don’t have nearly as much control than you do have more then levels and curves.

So now you know how to save to the web.  You do not have to use the save to the web feature Photoshop has, it is not necessary.  You can save normally as long as you resize properly.

 Storage solutions – Archiving your digital negatives.

Oh where oh where do I start?  You have seen how I file my images but let’s take a step back a few and first thing you wan to do it put your card in the reader, and BURN THE CD.  You temporarily safe of distortion of any files if you make this a routine.  Especially if you are doing a wedding or an important event, well maybe you shouldn’t be here if you are doing weddings on your own because you should have this knowledge.  You should be here if you are to refresh your memory on things that haven’t come to play in your role lately.  It never hurts to read an old manual because you always  almost gain benefit tidbits of something you think you already know, you have just forgotten.

So you know I have an external drive that I store my images on.  If my computer crashes I can only hope it takes my main drive with it.  I can restore programs not a problem.  Then there is the BIG debate on what the best way to Archive your digital negatives.   Well you best bet is to PRINT your photos.  I am not going to go any further than this but to give you options, because I have not picked one solid proof way to archive.

I recently did research and found out sharpie’d CD’s are now distorting images, as well as printable labels.  The LIFE OF A CD PERIOD is max 10 years, you may get lucky and have them a little longer but that isn’t going to help my grand-children. Or children when they grow up old enough to have kids of their own.

There is large companies, I am not trusting of..  for longevity.  Even Microsoft and Adobe. I believe they will be there forever, but recently Adobe moved all my photos to a limited crappy site with a 50 limit upload or pay 6.98 a month and charged me twice for one month.  I just wanted to get my blog albums organized!

It looks like to me I am going to have to invest in more hard drives.  The larger they are the more you lose.  I have a 1TB drive I am in fear of but LOVE to pieces.   Plenty of room but will have to duplicate photos time and time again to keep them in tact and insuring the image files will show.  I have disk after disk I can restore from burned up hard drives. Yes I have been a victim but sine recently learning about sharpies I am a bit worried and in a bit of a rush to get them back into the proper “chronological order” they need to be in.  My problem is I will burn them before editing them for safe keeping but i don’t reburn for those after edits.

Goin’ digital, doing it the right way is a fail proof system but you have to take alot of steps and it all boils down to a

“do it yourself  system”

back in the day the pro’s would turn in the film, they would have special processing done, where a tech looked at each and every individual print to insure the exposure looks fantastic and they could have touching done if desired.  Now it is is in our hands to do it all.  Some photo labs will do it for a higher cost but when you know the final results if you do it yourself before sending to print, you know how it will turn out.

I could go on and on but I will give you a break.  Until next time..

shoot on!  Craft on!

Your comments encourage me to craft more!

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